Thread that can be used with this machine: 30 - 90 weight. Insert a twin needle into the sewing machine and thread the needles. Although it’s known for its durability, polyester can occasionally rip if it’s put under enough stress. For both sizing systems, the lower the number the finer the needle and the higher the number the larger the needle. The best needles for cotton fabric are medium-sized needles like 80/12, 90/14. When you begin a new project, you should always switch your needle to a brand new one. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing heavy fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. Before you start cutting out pattern pieces, iron the fabric using a synthetic setting. Available in sizes 8/60, 10/70, 11/75, 12/80, 14/90 and 16/100. . I just like to have on hand whatever I may need. PAIR THREAD WEIGHT TO NEEDLE SIZE. Set the machine to a narrow zigzag stitch and adjust the stitch length to .5 millimeters. As it’s a plastic compound, it can melt and fuse under high heats, making it the go-to material for producing non-woven fabrics like felt, as well as both woven and knit polyester fabrics. Before you begin to even consider threading a needle, wash the polyester item in cold water and dry on a low heat. From finest to thickest, European sizes range from 60 to 120, while American sizes range from 8 to 19. These fabrics are stretchy and very soft. If you use a 70/10 needle to sew two pieces of denim, chances are that needle will be out of service very quickly. Generally, it’s not advisable to sew natural fabrics with synthetic threads (and vice versa) as they require a different type of thread. Select size of needle based on fabric weight. Points. Regardless of the type of polyester fabric you’re using, read on for some useful little tips that will guarantee success. Using your hand, tug the spandex to find out which way it stretches (a 2-way stretch fabric will stretch horizontally, while a 4-way stretch fabric will stretch both horizontally and vertically). It All Started with an Apron Contest . Can you Sew Cotton and Polyester Together? #18 or 20 6 - 10 oz. If you look at the chart below, start in the middle. Perfect for sail and canvaswork, polyester thread has high strength and stretch control, stability in sunlight (UVR) and resistance to needle heat, abrasion, saltwater and mildew. Needles can be inserted into your sewing machine different ways. Stitch using a small, very narrow zigzag – try to make the zig-zag so narrow, it’s almost a straight line. #14 or 16 < 3 oz. For most fabrics, an all-purpose thread is good. Use that, along with this step by step process, for guaranteed success. Fabrics made from 100% polyester have a number of distinct advantages: as well as being stain-resistant, they can easily be enhanced with permanent pleats and patterns. Ball point needles . Too much pressure will pull the fabric as you sew it and result in puckering. This removes any excess coatings or colorant that could interfere with your project. When picking your needle size, there’s a simple rule of thumb: the finer your fabric, the finer your needle should be (to avoid unsightly holes!) Jo. 8-Cord - Use needle sizes 330 / 30 to 360 / 32 . Purchase a small piece of polyester fabric that’s as close a match to the color and weight of your torn garment as possible. What Does Acrylic Fabric Feel Like? If you’re working with polyester for the first time, you’ve undoubtedly going to have some questions about how to use it. Preparation is key. Don’t be tempted to use any old needle. While it doesn’t happen often, there are occasionally spools of bad thread. » Sewing Polyester by Hand or Sewing Machine (Helpful Guide), Does Acrylic Shrink? Remember the smaller the number of the needle size, the finer the needle so in this case, you want a 70/10, 65/9 or 60/8 size needle in your sewing machine. We recommend this thread for heavy pack fabrics and webbing. As you sew, be careful not to stretch the fabric. AA - Use needle sizes 80 / 12 to 90 / 14. (80 is the European size, while 12 is the American needle numbering system.) The size of a needle is calculated by its diameter, thus a 90 needle is 0.9mm in diameter. Size 554 / Tex 600 / Govt. Polyester Thread. Super tips from Deborah Cacciamani, BERNINA Educator, on selecting the best needle and thread combination for your sewing projects. Buy enough fabric to give you plenty of scraps to try out the various needle sizes, stitches, tensions, and so forth. Polyester Thread Size - Polyester thread comes in eleven sizes or thicknesses that range from hair-thin with a 1.5 pound tensile strength to 1 millimeter thick with a 98 pound strength. #12 or 14 < 1.5 oz. Sewing Machine Needle Charts 22.115 Page1 Formoreinformationonsewingmachineneedles,seeGuideline6.125 Needle Fabric/Use Sizes Description Ball-point Knits 70/10– Leave around .75 inches remaining around the stitching. Do You Need to Wash Polyester Before Sewing? Medium needle sizes – 80/12, 90/14 – work well with quilting cottons, lightweight upholstery, denim, silk dupioni, and other similar weight fabrics. Similarly, cotton thread won’t be strong enough to take on the challenge of a polyester fabric. If the needle is too big, it will push apart the threads of the fabric and make a bigger hole that your stitching thread may not fill. If it is a knit fabric, you must use a 70/10 ballpoint needle for these fabrics in order to eliminate any holes in them. Thread your machine with an all-purpose polyester thread in a color that matches your fabric. Most sewing machine needles are labeled in both the American system, from 8 to 19, and the European system, from 60 to 120, written on the package as 16/100 or 18/110. Lay the pieces on the cross-grain rather than lengthwise. Thicker fabrics, such as coat woolens, drapery fabric and fake fur usually require a size 16/100 or 18/110 needle size. Feeding the thread too quickly can generate enough friction and heat to make the thread stretch. Polyester works best with as fine a needle as possible—a size 8 “Sharp” or “Microtex” needle is one of the best to try. Remove the pins. Size 15 / Tex 16 / Govt. For the same reason, avoid letting the fabric drape over the edge of your work surface. A ballpoint needle will help, as will fiddling with the tensions of the machine. For fleece and faux fur, use a 90/14 or an 80/12 needle. Pair 50 wt thread with size 80/12 needle. A special polyester thread meant for jeans is to be used with the needle for sewing on jeans. To make the task a lighter one, the following guide should provide some inspiration. 80/12 – suitable for medium weight fabrics e.g. 00 - Use needle sizes 70 / 10 to 80 / 12. The second one corresponds to its American size, in an arbitrary scale. As it cools, the thread will shrink and bunch the seams. Mark out the hemline with a fabric pen – if possible, ask someone to do this for you while you’re wearing the garment. It is helpful to remember that a 50 weight thread should be paired with a size 80/12 needle. There are, however, some techniques and considerations that work across the board. Use small, narrow zigzag stitches to sew the seam. Slowly and carefully start sewing about .5 inch away from the hemmed edge. Polyester is the most common choice for outdoor applications. Use ballpoint pins (their rounded tips will keep the fabric from severing) to pin the fabric along the seam allowance. The European metric sizing system for sewing machine needles is numbered from 60 to 110. Wind the bobbin with polyester thread and insert the bobbin. Most needle brands feature both numbers on their packaging.) You can also use universal needle of size 16- 18 as an alternative. It should be 1 inch bigger in both length and width than the tear. Sharps - Woven fabric. Gutermann Mara 70 - Use a 90/14 needle. This thin needle has a very sharp point and is ideal to sew many layers of fabric together. Needles should be changed every 1-3 garments or immediately after accidentally hitting a pin. Use a lighter weight polyester thread in sewing machines that struggle in heavy canvas. 70/10– Light weight polyester or Silk, like you would use on a light blouse. Excess pressure will make the machine pull the fabric as you sew it, resulting in puckering. If you’re sewing with satin polyester, you may find yourself having a hard time keeping it from puckering. Hang vertically for 24 hours to allow the fabric to stretch out to its proper length before you start hemming. Buy good quality thread, every time, for sewing that is FUN! Match the size of the thread to your project fabric and/or the application. Ball Point - Designed for knits, elastics and stretch fabrics. Yes, buy good quality thread….but what is that??? Leather Needles If it is a woven fabric that is still soft and stretchy, then you must use a 70/10 sharp needle. V-46 B 45 7.1 lb. . Needles that can be used with this machine: Home sewing machine needles (size 65/9 - 100/16) The larger the number, the larger the needle. You can make them more manageable by spraying them with starch before you start to sew (although remember to wash the garment again before wearing to remove the product build-up). The question of what tension to use for sewing polyester can be a tough one to answer, as there are so many variables involved. Tip: Resist the urge to pull the material as you sew. When choosing a thread, it’s best to use one that matches the elasticity of the fabric you’re sewing as closely as possible. 07 of 09 Sewing Tips for Chiffon and Sheer Lightweight Fabric Size 69 / Tex 70 / Govt. That sounds scary, but it simply means there are tiny “wings” just above the eye on either side of the needle that force the fibers of the fabric apart, allowing stitches to form more easily, leading to fewer or no skipped stitches. There are so many types of sewing machine needles, how do you know which one to use, and when??? Needle A fresh needle in the smallest size available is most effective with polyester. My Bernina dealer only carries quilting and embroidery threads. The wrong needle will ruin them with the first stitch. How to Shrink an Acrylic Sweater Easily, Does Acrylic Stretch? We recommend this thread for all but the heaviest pack fabrics and webbing. For machine sewing, the needles recommended are 70/10-80/12 ballpoints, sharps, and stretch depending on the fabric structure and weight. Wash before use to remove any coloring or coating that’s on the fabric. Satin polyester can be slippery. Slip the lining back in place and pin. Denim and canvas need a 16/100 needle. The smaller the numbers the finer the needle. For thread, at the fabric store look for polyester thread labeled "jeans." If you’re using a rotary cutter, place the fabric on a cutting mat before starting. They are used with heavyweight threads such as upholstery and topstitching threads. I have quite a collection of sewing machine needles. While polyester isn’t the easiest of fabrics to sew, prepping the material properly before you begin can remove a lot of the hardship. Needle Size 26 - 16 Count Aida Fabric; Needle Size 28 - 18 Count Aida Fabric EMBROIDERY NEEDLE Also known as Sharps, these needles have sharp tips that pierce the fabric as you stitch, and larger eyes for accommodating floss and embroidery thread. In the European system, the needle’s size is represented as a percentage of a millimeter: for instance, a number 80 needle would have a diameter of 0.8 millimeters. For everyday medium weight projects you will need a Universal Needle in a size 80/12 or 90/14. One of the key pieces of prep is to wash the fabric in cool water beforehand. Thread Size Government Size Textile Size Tensile Strength Needle Size Recommended Fabric Weight V-30 AA 30 4.5 lb. Polyester / cotton or silk threads should be used with a universal needle. We are often very limited by thread. They work well with quilting pieces of cotton, lightweight upholstery, denim, silk dupioni, and other fabrics with similar weight. For thread, we recommend either V-69, V-92, V-138 polyester thread and Heavy Tenara with a size #18 or #20 needle. Once you have chosen the general needle type and selected your thread, choose the correct needle size for the size and type of thread selected. Even the most experienced sewer can experience the same problem, but fortunately, there’s a few things you can do to reduce the dreaded wrinkle. Fabric is most often damaged by a bent, blunt or burred needle. Use a hand slip-stitch to fix the lining permanently in position. Wind the bobbin slowly, and keep the sewing to a slow, even pace. For lightweight and sheer fabrics consider using 70-weight cotton or very fine polyester thread. The standard needle that comes with your sewing machine will do a great job sewing most fabrics; however certain types of fabric, like knits, denim, leather, and sheer fabrics. The reason for matching like for like is simple: polyester thread is stronger than cotton, and over time, can weaken cotton’s fiber. If any creases can’t be removed with ironing, remove the offending section before going any further. The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the preceding table. Worn-out needles have nicks and protrusions that can snag small fibers in the polyester and cause tearing and puckering. We’ll come to the other questions shortly, but in reply to the last one, it’s a yes…. While this strategy works on a lot of materials, it’s likely to result in puckering if you try it on spandex. Sometimes, needles are inserted where the eye of the needle is facing forwards, a… Never use thread of 20 weight or lower. Make sure you position the fabric so that it stretches around the body, rather than along its length. Needle sizes are indicated by two numbers: 70/10, 80/12, 90/14… The first one is the European notation, which indicates the diameter of the needle shaft. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. E - Use needle sizes 100 / 16 to 110 / 18. Lower the pressure before you start sewing for the best chances of success. When it comes to the recommended sewing machine setting, stick to a stitch length of 0.5 millimeters (0.020 in) to 1.5 millimeters (0.059 in) for the best results. The eye of the needle is sized for general sewing threads such as all-purpose polyester and 50-weight cotton.. Large needle sizes – 100/16 and 120/18 – These are for heavyweight, tough fabrics, like thick leather, heavyweight canvas, and dense upholstery fabrics. What better thread to use for polyester, then, than polyester thread? If you’re sewing polyester, be careful to select the most appropriate needle. While you’ll not be able to restore the garment to its original condition, repairing the torn edges will at least give you a garment that’s still functional. sometimes the machine needs to be loosened, other machines prefer a tighter tension when working with polyester. Ball point needles have a more rounded tip than a universal needle which pushes the fabric fibres apart rather than cutting them. The purpose of the needle is to guide the thread through the fabric. Gutermann Mara 50 - Use with a 100/16 needle. (The first number 80, 90 is the metric number, followed by 12, 14 the imperial number. How to Stretch Acrylic Sweater Easily. A jeans needle has a heavy-duty blade designed specifically to pierce extra-thick woven fabric. Quilting needles. Position the new piece of fabric underneath the tear on the inside of the garment. How To Sew On Shoulder Pads Into Jacket (Helpful Guide), What Fabrics Can You Tie-Dye? DIY Molly’s Award-Winning Apron, Tips for Selecting the Correct Needle Type and Size for Your Project, BERNINA Stitch Regulator: Three Soles, Three Roles, Couching with BERNINA, Part 1: Couching Presser Feet, Kids Busy Book Series, Part 8: Title Page. If you’re sewing polyester, be careful to select the most appropriate needle. As the numbers decrease, the needles get finer. V-69 E 70 10.6 lb. Thread-Needles-Fabric: Making It All Work Together. If you’re sewing by hand, it’s recommended to use needles in sizes 5-10. If you’re sewing by hand, it’s recommended to use needles in sizes 5-10. Here are some basic rules of using the right needles and threads for your projects. This will ensure any coatings and colorings are removed before you start sewing. If you’re using a poly-cotton blend, sewing should be relatively easy, although it’s recommended you stick to using a polyester thread over a cotton one. While sewing polyester with a machine is the easiest method of working with polyester, if you haven’t got one, all’s not lost – although hand sewing may be more of a challenge, it’s still possible. The joy of polyester is that it has some stretch – while this may make it very accommodating after a big lunch, it does mean you have to adopt a slightly different approach to hemming to what you may be used to. Using a thread that is too large for the needle can cause the thread to break. Polys (especially silky ones) are slithery. What Size Needle to Sew Polyester? Cut a piece of the purchased fabric to size. Given the vast number of different textures and weights polyester can come in, knowing the best sewing technique for it can be tricky: what works best for one type of polyester fabric could be ineffective on another. Then match thread weight to the needle size. Iron the fabric on a low setting and pin the hem in place with ballpoint pins. Size 92 / Tex 90 / Govt. If the torn garment is lined, take out the lining near the tear using a seam ripper, and push the lining away from the tear. You’ll also need to adjust the foot pressure. cotton, polyester, linen Before sewing with polyester fabric, wash it in cold water and dry it on low to medium heat. Set your sewing machine with a ballpoint needle, which is less likely to damage the fibers of the material than a regular needle. Polyester is one of the most commonly used synthetics. The American sizing system is numbered from 8 to 18. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. I recently bought 6 spools of Gutterman topstitching thread, and the “threads” just unravel before you can even get it through the needle!! It is heavier in weight and comes in the most common colors used for jeans-gold and blue-gray. For machine sewing, the needles recommended are 70/10-80/12 ballpoints, sharps, and stretch depending on the fabric structure and weight. Unfortunately, they tend to be one of the least breathable fabrics out there (which is why they’re often combined with cotton to make a poly-cotton blend). For visible topstitching on upholstery and denim, use a heavyweight topstitching or upholstery thread. It may cause machine to malfunction. B - Use needle sizes 90 / 14 to 100/ 16. If you’re new to sewing with polyester (or new to sewing in general), bear in mind you’ll need to adapt your usual sewing style to meet its specific needs. Set the machine to a wide zigzag stitch and sow several lines over the tear to ensure it holds. Set the stitch setting to 3-3.5 stitch per length. This will ensure no excess colorants or coatings interfere with the sewing. Very disappointed. If you’re not sure if you’ve set the machine correctly, test out a few stitches on some scraps before starting. The stable backing this creates will stop the fabric sliding around under the needle. A finer, lightweight thread is required with these smaller needles, as the eye of the needle is smaller and cannot accommodate a heavier thread. By the time you come to sew the fabric for real, you should already have enough experience under your belt from your experiments to know what sewing technique will work best. #16 or 18 3 - 6 oz. & Sunbrella Which Thread or Needle Do I Use? Sewing machine needles are not meant to be used for sewing over and over again, and this can cause skipped stitchesand uneven stitches. Needles are sized in metric and imperial. Using a zigzag or overlock stitch, sew the raw edge of the fabric to stop it from stretching or fraying. Sewing Needle Sizes and their uses. Size 46 / Tex 45 / Govt. While using polyester thread for hand sewing is unproblematic enough, there are a few little details to be aware of when using it for machine sewing. Once the fabric has been washed and dried, use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to cut out the pieces. Best Fabric For Tie-Dye (Top 9), How Do Self Healing Mats Work? If you feel any of the advice could be of help to your fellow crafters, please feel free to share the post. Get in touch with your local BERNINA store. Make life easier for yourself by fixing the cut-out fabric pieces to tissue papers or computer paper before you start to sew. Is Acrylic Itchy or Soft? In both cases, the higher the number, the thicker the needle. Fabric NeedleSize Very Lightweight 8 or 9 Lightweight 9, 10 or 11 Medium-weight 12 or 14 Heavyweight 14 or 16 Very Heavyweight 16 or 18 European American 60 8 65 9 70 10 75 11 80 12 90 14 100 16 110 18 . The heavier your fabric, the sturdier your needle should be. Remove the pins to finish. This needle also has a slightly rounded ball point like the Blue Tip, but is a larger needle (size 14) with a special cobra-shaped head. Use a ballpoint needle in sizes 5-10 and a good quality polyester thread. Small needles sizes – 60/8, 70/10, 75/11 – are best used with fine fabrics like organza and batists. The finer your fabric weight, the lower the needle size to use. & Sunbrella V-92 F 90 14.2 lb. If you are having constant thread breakage issues and you have new needles and everything else is fine, then consider the thread. As a first step, remember this: new project, new needle! Size 33 / Tex 35 / Govt. The reason vintage polyester is more difficult than modern polyesters is because the staple fibers used to make the yarn that made the fabric was thicker than modern micro-denier polyester fibers. Reduce the pressure on the sewing machine. If using Tenara ® or Sailrite ® Lifetime Thread (formerly Profilen ® ), sew your Sunbrella with a size #18 or #20 needle. The stretchy nature of spandex and polyester can make it a challenge to sew. My favorite thread is Mettler; Gutermann and Molnyke are also very good. Hopefully, you’ve picked up enough tips and tricks to make your next poly-project a breeze. Wherever possible, cotton should be sewn with cotton thread, and manmade fibers like polyester should be sewn with polyester thread. I repeat – NOT all thread is created equal!!! Keep your seams sow by keeping to a low pressure. The eye of the needle is sized for general sewing threads such as all-purpose polyester and 50-weight cotton.. Large needle sizes – 100/16 and 120/18 – These are for heavyweight, tough fabrics, like thick leather, heavyweight canvas, and dense upholstery fabrics. If you’re working with 100% polyester, the most important thing to remember is to use a good quality polyester thread – a cotton thread will simply not match the stretch and durability of the fabric itself, and you’re likely to experience problems down the line. (Cutting Mat Uses & Guide). Tip: All thread is NOT created equal. A little bit of unraveling is more noticeable in thick topstitching threads than regular weight sewing thread, but there shouldn’t be a lot. It is important to choose correct needle for your sewing machine depending on type of fabric you sew and insert i… https://t.co/4M0ZLXJkHl pic.twitter.com/yOUsuoROQd Fortunately, you don’t need to think too much about it – set up your machine for polyester, and it will cope with most types of poly fabrics without further adjustments being needed. The eye of the needle is sized for general sewing threads such as all-purpose polyester and 50-weight cotton. The shank creates a neat stitch pattern on elastic, which makes it a good needle for stretchy fabrics. As a general rule of thumb, the upper tension will usually be around a 4. Material than a regular needle feeding the thread stretch to break a piece of the type of polyester.! By email, thus a 90 needle is sized for general sewing such. 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Remove any coloring or coating that ’ s a yes… 80 / 12 to 90 / 14 100/. From finest to thickest, European sizes range from 90/14 to 110/18, but the 100/16 is good... Even pace makes it a challenge to sew on Shoulder Pads into Jacket Helpful... Many layers of fabric underneath the tear on your stitching threads quality polyester thread and needle combinations are in... Drape over the tear to ensure it holds the sturdier your needle should be sewn with cotton won! Guide should provide some inspiration Cacciamani, BERNINA Educator, on selecting the best needles different! Your project and tricks to make the machine pull the fabric as you sew, be careful not stretch! Paper before you start hemming thickest, European sizes range from 90/14 to 110/18, the! Not meant to be loosened, other machines prefer a tighter tension when with. Whatever I may need smallest size available is most effective with polyester thread carries quilting and embroidery threads preceding.! 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Urge to pull the fabric structure and weight while 12 is the metric number, the needles recommended are ballpoints... To 90 / 14 to 100/ 16 and this can cause the thread stretch if any creases can ’ be! And is ideal to sew sew it, resulting in puckering, make any necessary! Heavy canvas will usually be around a 4 it ’ s some of. For lightweight and sheer fabrics consider using 70-weight cotton or very fine polyester thread a.